Another is the golden chicken gravy with a hint of butterscotch that is ladled into a well in the mashed potatoes that come with the half-chicken, which is advertised as simply pan-roasted, although it has the wonderfully stiff shards of skin you get from weighting down the bird as it cooks.Įverybody who has eaten at Red Hook Tavern will tell you to get the country-ham-and-Cheddar croquettes on a creamy pool of whole-grain Dijonnaise. ![]() It is the kind of detail that makes Red Hook Tavern something more than a place for the locals to get beer and burgers. ![]() She has an excellent dry-aged steak - New York strip, naturally - impressively browned and served with a small cast-iron skillet full of creamed spinach, a touch so right it may qualify as art. The kitchen is overseen by Allison Plumer, a chef who has done most of her cooking in Brooklyn. The important difference between the burgers, though, is that lately Peter Luger’s have tended to be better in memory than in reality, while the Red Hook Tavern’s is, right now, one of the few absolutely mandatory burgers in New York City. In both places, the patties are made with some portion of dry-aged prime beef, stand about an inch and a half tall, and possess a dark crust that fills your head with the instinct-triggering aromas and flavors whose creation in browned meat was described by Louis Camille Maillard. (You might think that Luger traffics in the style known as the steakhouse burger, but most burger taxonomists agree that what it serves, only at the bar and only at lunch, is a pub burger.) Like Peter Luger, Red Hook Tavern employs a toasted and buttered hard roll with a smattering of sesame seeds - about as many as the stars you can see in the sky over Manhattan on a very clear night. Durney has said that he intends the Red Hook Tavern burger as a homage to the one at Peter Luger Steak House. Clarke’s, JG Melon and Fanelli Cafe in Manhattan and at Donovan’s Pub in Queens. It is the plain, sturdy and hunger-calming burger you get at P.J. Motz, a filmmaker and author whose work explores all things ground-beef-and-bun-related, the hallmarks of a pub burger are a thicker-than-average patty and a relative lack of adornment. ![]() New York has so many of those already that the style they typically serve is a recognized subgenre that George Motz calls “the New York City pub burger.” According to Mr. Durney probably would not have drummed up much enthusiasm had he gone around telling people he was going to open a bar that served hamburgers.
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